Why does custom work cost what it does part 2
The next step is building the canvas for the suit coat. We pad stitch in all of our canvas; in today's world a lot of coat manufacturers use an iron in type of canvas. This is okay for the first few years then it starts to separate from the materials and it's not doing the job it was designed to. We cut our canvas on the grain so there is not any stretch in the canvas. We add a stay strip which helps the canvas hold it shape against the clients chest.
At this point we take the canvas and baste it into the coat fronts and get the rest of the suit ready for a first fitting. A first fitting is important as that is where all the adjustments are done and written on the suit.
Once the trousers, vest and coat have been basted up with their canvas it is time to meet the client and see how the pattern we drafted is going to fit.
After the fitting we will take the suit back to our shop, rip it apart and transfer all the marking onto the pattern. That way the pattern is ready the next time we make a suit for that customer. We start working on the trousers, adding the stays to the crotch and the rear seam. Then we add the back pockets and then the front pockets to their respective parts.
Then we start work on the front fly and once we are pleased with the way it is going together it is seamed and finished. At this point the trousers are attached at the crotch. The next item is the waistband along with belt-loops if the customer wants them. Once all of this is finished the trousers are set aside for later.
Next we put the pockets in the vest and re-attach the canvas to the inside vest front. The lining is attached to the front of the vest and the inside lining is also attached to the front of the vest. At this point the back inside lining is attached to the front inside lining; during this whole process the center seam of the back of the vest is left open.